I've spent my 22 years between predominantly Catholic cities with famous drinking cultures and have mostly lived to tell the tale.
1. New Orleans, LA, USA (NU OR-ləns)
I called New Orleans home from 2011 to 2013. If you know anything about the city beyond red beans and rice and the devastating Hurricane Katrina, I probably don't need to drive the point home any further that New Orleans is so much more than Bourbon Street. The culture is so unique that assimilation becomes difficult for those unfamiliar, and I'm certain that's part of it's allure. I'm not making an argument that Bourbon Street isn't worth a stroll (with closed toed shoes, trust). I'm not saying Mardi Gras doesn't earn its reputation. I'm certainly not making any unique assessment of the city, as New Orleans has been a darling of travel writers and food bloggers for as long as I can remember. But if you do pay a visit, I'd like to give you a jumping off point.
When you think of New Orleans, the ancient electric streetcars screeching up and down St. Charles and Canal probably quickly come to mind. They're horribly inefficient, often crowded with a combination of elderly tourist groups and locals with armfuls of groceries, but inexpensive and undeniably safer than driving after a few drinks. I'd absolutely recommend using them.
If you do find yourself on Bourbon Street or somewhere nearby in the French Quarter, I think Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop-- a kitschy piece of 18th century history-- is good for a quick drink and photo opp. Otherwise, I'd recommend getting out of downtown altogether. If the weather's nice, take a walk through the Garden District. Better yet, head to midcity to explore City Park and hidden gems such as the New Orleans Museum of Art (above).
When you're ready for your first cocktail, the Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone is an absolute must. Further up St. Charles (and on the streetcar line), the bar at the antebellum Columns Hotel (above) was one of my favorite haunts. Uptown New Orleans-- particularly Magazine Street-- is full of twenty something locals and some of the best bars and restaurants in town. Boulingny Tavern comes to mind. For the college crowd, I'd recommend the blessing and curse that is F&M Patio Bar. Don't fall off the pool table.
If coming to New Orleans was at all an informed decision, you also came to eat. Commanders Palace and the more contemporary SoBou are high-priced local favorites. I'd recommend going for a big lunch or brunch to save money. Domilise's has the best po-boys you can find Uptown.
And finally, at least while you're there please don't pronounce the city's name as "New Or-leens", and certainly not "Nawlins". No one does that. Don't do that.
I spent late Spring and summer of 2012 in this equal parts charming and debauched tiny Flemish town, studying the Great War and bumming around in trenches when I wasn't dancing on tables in the alarmingly high concentration of bars and lounges in the student city. The largely Medieval old town was leveled in WWI, but was rebuilt in 1919 with respect to the original architecture. While you don't need to learn the language to spend any time there, a dank u and alstublieft will take you far. Flemish people truly are among the friendliest I've ever encountered.
The Oude Markt and Grote Markt are both worth visiting-- during the day for sightseeing and in the evening for a Big Night Out. KU is the oldest functioning Catholic university, and worth having a look around. Kruidtuin--the city's impressive botanical gardens -- can be a source of good clean fun. But we're in beer country, and you're probably not in the market for good clean fun.
Leuven is the home of ubiquitous Stella Artois, which is cheaper than water in many restaurants. I'm a wine and whiskey girl, but even I knew I needed to broaden my horizons. De Wiering is a great little pub and cafe where you can sample beers to your heart's desire and get some frieten to prevent that looming hangover. De Giraf also has a fantastic selection of beers, a creative shot menu, and an environment more conducive to a night out.
If you really mean business, you should venture to an underground bar and lounge called The Seven Oaks (above) You'll find fewer tourists, more dancing, and probably more than one wild story that'll impress your friends over coffee the next morning.
3. Louisville, KY, USA (looəvuhl) (as close to one syllable as you can muster)
I'm lucky to call Louisville my hometown as well as my current residence. In recent years Louisville has become a niche favorite for self proclaimed foodies and hipsters looking for the next big medium-sized town, and I can't argue with them. It's a bit southern Southern, a little Midwestern, and something entirely its own. We were named after notorious Louis XXI and boast one of the only proudly displayed statues of the poor headless little guy. Louisville is largely defined by the Bourbon and the Derby, but I think there's something for everyone.
First, I'd recommend that you visit in early to mid autumn. The changing leaves are pure magic, and the hype of the Derby festival is no where in sight. Museum Row and Whiskey Row are both in the heart of downtown, where I suggest you begin your visit. The waterfront is just a few steps away. A few miles from that, you'll find the NuLu neighborhood, which is full of delightful local restaurants, bars, and shops. Old Louisville and St. James are a bit of a drive away from that, but if you're into historic homes you can't not go.
On the East end of Museum Row you'll find 21c Museum Hotel (above and below) and its phenomenal bar and restaurant called Proof. I don't know about you, but cocktails and contemporary art are two ingredients for a perfectly tailored to me sort of Saturday night. Go. Go there first. Spend your whole trip there.
If you do leave Proof, head to Meta for more perfectly crafted cocktails. Hilltop Tavern is in a more residential part of town, and has a great bar menu. Both Nachbar and Seidenfadens are perfect if you're in the mood for a dive bar.
Yes, our pronunciation of "Louisville" is comical. Just adapt.
No comments:
Post a Comment